This place remains to me a bundle of contradictions. Oddly enough, that is one of the few ways I can describe what I've observed in Cambodia thus far.
The first example that comes to mind is the overwhelming bureaucracy woven into many businesses and most certainly ingrained in the Cambodian government. Contrast this to the general perceived notion that Cambodians are "lazy" (not my opinion but one shared by many!) and hardly get anything done. From what I hear about the work method at least in the province, it is not uncommon to have to shake an employee awake during work hours - meaning that this general notion is generally true. So we have bureaucratic freaks v.s. sleepy slackers. That being said, I believe that there is not one way to describe how Cambodians work because the popular beliefs are incompatible.
Next is the discrepancy between the rich and poor. Yes, flashing lights should be going off in your head because this is painstakingly obvious. In fact, according to the UN, the gap between rich and poor is among the greatest human rights challenges facing Cambodia. The gap is great, with the poorest 10% having only 3% of the income while the richest 10% have 35%. (Global Education) Hummers carrying an army size load of one passenger cruise next to motos escorting families of four and the family dog. Clean and brightly lit grocery stores comparable to ours in the US are situated not far from bustling markets, where the majority of K'mai buy their food. I once went to this huge grocery store with outstanding variety, but I was only one of maybe seven shoppers there. The statistic of the gap between the rich and poor shows that only few can afford to buy things off shelves in a pleasant setting. Beautiful, atmospheric, and expensive restaurants rival street stands selling fried ramen noodles. I often wonder what K'mai people even go to these restaurants. They are usually pretty empty or just have a few tables occupied by foreigners. However the rich K'mai do exist and they do go to the best cafes, restaurants, and stores; this I have witnessed. Overall, this discrepancy is by far the biggest contradiction. Hun Sen's immaculate and obscenely huge house complete with a helicopter landing pad overlooks the hundreds of struggling K'mai people who pass it everyday, probably either holding back their gag reflex or just indifferent to it all (as the Cambodian population is). The corrupt government has it all, but the country is still so poor.
Next is the discrepancy between the rich and poor. Yes, flashing lights should be going off in your head because this is painstakingly obvious. In fact, according to the UN, the gap between rich and poor is among the greatest human rights challenges facing Cambodia. The gap is great, with the poorest 10% having only 3% of the income while the richest 10% have 35%. (Global Education) Hummers carrying an army size load of one passenger cruise next to motos escorting families of four and the family dog. Clean and brightly lit grocery stores comparable to ours in the US are situated not far from bustling markets, where the majority of K'mai buy their food. I once went to this huge grocery store with outstanding variety, but I was only one of maybe seven shoppers there. The statistic of the gap between the rich and poor shows that only few can afford to buy things off shelves in a pleasant setting. Beautiful, atmospheric, and expensive restaurants rival street stands selling fried ramen noodles. I often wonder what K'mai people even go to these restaurants. They are usually pretty empty or just have a few tables occupied by foreigners. However the rich K'mai do exist and they do go to the best cafes, restaurants, and stores; this I have witnessed. Overall, this discrepancy is by far the biggest contradiction. Hun Sen's immaculate and obscenely huge house complete with a helicopter landing pad overlooks the hundreds of struggling K'mai people who pass it everyday, probably either holding back their gag reflex or just indifferent to it all (as the Cambodian population is). The corrupt government has it all, but the country is still so poor.
The final example that comes to mind now is just one of comparison, not contradiction, though you may find hints of inconsistency in it. One thing that kind of boils my brain here is the large ex-pat population. Try as I might, I can't find a statistic on the ex-pat population in Phnom Penh, but I do know it is big enough to get me thinking. It seems that of the numerous neighborhoods in Phnom Penh, I would say that two are entirely made up of foreigners. Some come to follow their dreams. Tons of international and Western restaurants are proof of this. Cambodia is relatively inexpensive and there's a lot of opportunity. Some come for work. With a stressed job market at home, many come here for high-up positions in companies they couldn't imagine being apart of at home. There's a need here. Others, more arguably, come for what seems like just plain old fun. I met an older Australian gentleman last week who's made a life here for 14 years. He has a wife, daughter, and easy part-time job, and he's just hanging out. He maintains an active nightlife with people years younger than him and uses the city as an excuse to do whatever he wants. No judgement here on my part, but what I'm trying to say is, Cambodians, take back your city!! Make it yours and be the most successful people in it! I would say that there are uncountable efforts to integrate the K'mai people in their own city and businesses, but I would feel like I'm lying if I didn't admit that it seems like Western influence has hit this city hard.
I wouldn't say that the city is teeming with foreigners and is boiling over the edge with them, but the number of NGOs here is out of control. Many NGOs are trying to do the same thing as their counterparts or opponents, but waste time and energy because they all of their missions overlap. Their image is also contradiction; NGOs are seen as being more detrimental to Cambodia's development while also being praised for their hard work and progress.
These contradictions, or call them what you will, are not simple to dissect. I'm still figuring everything out here, and it's easy to overcomplicate ideas. I would like to perhaps revise my previous statements in saying that though everything may not appear to be a total contradiction, Cambodia is a land of extremes. On one end, I'd like to say that there are endless problems with seemingly no solutions and a system that is too confusing to break. On the other, I'd like to say that everything is developing here, slowly but surely, and I remain pleasantly optimistic.
These contradictions, or call them what you will, are not simple to dissect. I'm still figuring everything out here, and it's easy to overcomplicate ideas. I would like to perhaps revise my previous statements in saying that though everything may not appear to be a total contradiction, Cambodia is a land of extremes. On one end, I'd like to say that there are endless problems with seemingly no solutions and a system that is too confusing to break. On the other, I'd like to say that everything is developing here, slowly but surely, and I remain pleasantly optimistic.
This from a blog posted by an expat in 2007:
ReplyDeleteHave you expats in Cambodia noticed this? From Stickman's 22/4/07 weekly column:
The new visa restrictions have caused a major exodus of foreigners out of Thailand and this is almost certainly the major contributing factor to the swelling of the expat population in Phnom Penh. Reports suggest that the number of Westerners in the Cambodian capital has soared over the last year, particularly the last 6 months - exactly the period since the new visa restrictions appeared. The numbers are upsetting some who have complained that men now outnumber women at weekends in some of the city's popular nightlife venues. These new arrivals are exactly the type that the Thai authorities were hoping to get rid of, and would appear to have succeeded in doing so. It is no coincidence that the attitude of Khmers towards foreigners has started hardening. Many of the Thailand exiles seem unable to convert baht to local currency and insist on paying Thailand rates for all manner of services, which has caused a massive spike in prices from tuktuk fares to massages, again, much to the disgust of the long-termers. One guy said to me that it is too painful to think about what Phnom Penh will be like in a couple of years. It has also been said that Sihanoukville, the southern Cambodia city, is also rapidly increasing in numbers with many former Pattaya residents switching to what is known as the Cambodian city of sin. The rough Pattaya style does not go down too well with the more socially conservative and shy Khmers.